This July, I found myself on a tiny speck of paradise in the Aegean Sea: Schoinoussa. Part of the Lesser Cyclades group, it’s situated between the islands of Irakleia and Koufonisia. With a population barely touching 300 and an area so small you could walk it in a few hours, this little gem of the Cyclades promised nothing more than simplicity—and delivered so much more. Schoinoussa is like that introverted friend who doesn’t want the spotlight but is secretly the coolest person you know!
Arrival: It’s the Journey, Not the Destination (But Also, It’s the Destination)
Getting to Schoinoussa isn’t exactly hopping on a quick ferry ride from Athens. No, this is a place that makes you work for it! Think of it as part of the charm.
We flew on a very early flight from Athens to Naxos (to a horrible, filthy airport I must add) and were supposed to board the same day a ferry to Schoinoussa. On that day it was extremely windy so our boat ride was cancelled. We had to spend the next 24hours on Naxos Island (not my kind of an island for a summer holiday but ok for others). To make the most of it, we found rooms at a “Faulty Towers” kind of hotel near the port, rented a car and visited the Temple of Demeter and the quaint mountain villages. That part was enjoyable. We took the boat the next day.
Alternatively, you can take the ferry directly from Piraeus for an 8-hour trip to Schoinoussa.
First Impressions: Slow Down and Smile
Once I stepped off the boat, time slowed down. The port of Mersini welcomed us with a scattering of whitewashed houses and boats gently swaying in the harbor. This wasn’t Mykonos or Santorini—thank the gods! Schoinoussa was the whisper of an island, just waiting for me to lean in and listen.
No hordes of tourists, no blaring car horns—just the sound of waves gently lapping against the dock and the occasional bleating of a goat in the distance.
The vibe here? Think barefoot luxury meets “I didn’t bother to bring my watch because no one cares about time.”
The island’s only main road leads to Chora, the “bustling” center of Schoinoussa, which consists of a few whitewashed houses, and narrow streets, where bougainvillea blooms contrast against the azure skies, with a handful of tavernas, bars and small shops.
Our accommodation on Livadi beach was a cozy guesthouse with a balcony and a magnificent view of the beach. The lady in charge of the house welcomed us with a smile and stories of island life. The location was great, and it epitomized the warm hospitality the island is known for. This personal touch, which is often missing in larger tourist hotspots, made our stay all the more special.
From day one we marked our territory under the shade of trees right on the beach.
Schoinoussa’s beaches are the stuff of postcards—unspoiled, serene, and with just enough of a breeze to keep you cool. The island’s beauty lies in its authenticity—no large resorts or crowded bars, just the pure essence of island life. It’s a place where simplicity and natural beauty reign supreme, making it the perfect destination for those seeking peace.
Food: A Love Letter to My Stomach
If Schoinoussa has one superpower, it’s the ability to feed you like royalty. Fresh fish, lobster, grilled octopus, fava and Greek salads piled high with tomatoes that “taste like actual sunshine”—each meal felt like a celebration of simple, delicious ingredients.
Taverns such as “Nicholas” (packed with small groups of visitors from the harboring yachts, on both times we visited), Kira Pothiti (the most delicious mousakkas ever…), Bizeli, Livadi Café-Restaurant, serve up traditional Greek dishes with a modern twist, making each meal memorable.
What I loved most about Schoinoussa was how it made me slow down and appreciate the simple things. Afternoons were spent walking along dusty paths lined with wildflowers, evenings were for watching the sky turn a hundred shades of pink and purple as the sun dipped below the horizon, while the stars popped out one by one, unhindered by city lights.
Leaving Schoinoussa: Until Next Time
When it was time to leave Schoinoussa, I felt like I was saying goodbye to an old friend. As the ferry pulled away from Mersini, I took one last look at the island, knowing that this wouldn’t be my last visit. Schoinoussa isn’t a place you just go to; it’s a place that stays with you, whispering for you to return every time you need a reminder that life’s best moments are often the simplest.
So, if you find yourself craving a true getaway—somewhere to unplug, unwind, and rediscover the joy of doing absolutely nothing—Schoinoussa is waiting, with open arms and a cold glass of raki.
Just don’t tell too many people-I’d like to keep this hidden gem hidden…
Also, avoid going in August…
